The more popular types of moldings include the half-round, quarter-round, flat-edge, beaded, grooved, and fluted styles. Depending on the function and matching design, modifications are made for casings, baseboards, picture frames, coves, paneling, cabinetwork, and battens.
Panels and frames should be mitred and may be connected using dowels, splines, glue, corrugated fasteners, screws, or nails. Where mitre joints are glued, the end grain must first be fitted using a thin coat of adhesive. This coat of glue should be dried and be scraped up smoothly prior to applying the last coat of glue. Mitring is also crucial for
moldings utilized for edgings. For this type of edge, moldings must be cut into 4 slightly oversized pieces to give adequate stock left to give allowance for mitred corners. The moldings should first be set in place and any irregularities trimmed using a plane. It recommended to use a rabbet, mortise and tenon, or other concealed joint. If a power tool is used to cut the wood, a wooden spring should be clamped to the ripfence to clasp the molding on the dado blades. Use a stick to push the molding on the fence into the blade.
Moldings frequently have a hard grain and may deflect a brad. To minimize this issue, simply by drill a small hole using a brad with head removed (or a fine steel needle cut off above the eye) as a bit. Another safeguard is chopping off the tip of the nail before nailing it into the wood.
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